Overcast Burger Battle 2019: The Critic’s Pick Crowns a 3-Peat Burger Battle Legend

Seto has won critic's pick 3 years in a row, and can officially add a third champ to their smacktalkin' #ChampChampChamp hashtag.

Note: The reviews below are the views of Burger Battle warrior-judges Emily Deming & Michael Hannaford, not necessarily those of the paper. Somebody had to step up and put their health and personal time in jeopardy in this month, to taste them all — all 21 one of them — to argue over and rank them. So we thank them very much their heightened cholesterol and for forgoing 21 meals this month with their significant others, in the name of starting some dialogue on Burger Battle 2019. Feel free to agree, disagree, or discuss below.

Level I – “I s’pose”

Bocas & Mill Street’s Chorizo Burgers.

Mill Street’s burger, they called it… “Chorizo,” was all corporate double-speak and its hip menu brag about manchego cheese was a mere sliver and a whisper from the head office, “cut coooooossssts.” The “avocado crema” was good on its own as a fry dip, but indecipherable on the burger.

On Boca’s “Chorizo” burger, everything was pink but the oddly spiced patty.  Romesco sauce gobs acted as a lubricant for roasted pepper to slip slide around, and right on out. Like Mill Street’s “spanish frites,”  Boca’s “patatas bravas” were nothing to pretend an accent over. At least Boca’s bun was warm. Spanish frites?  Not sure, they only had french fries when we were there.


 Nice avocado margarita, but, like the rest of the drink menu, the burger was just too sweet.  The crispy iceberg, cucumber, feta, and grilled lamb patty were excellent, but mired by the syrupy donair sauce under the patty, which sogged the bottom of me bun.


 This Tower of Fried Brown Power was well plated but the sausage patty, like a meat fist, was not juicy enough to get away with its girth. The pineapple salsa added a lot, but they should stand by the courage of their sweet-savoury convictions and have it on the burger, not just on the side. The crispy chicken skin was excellent, all the crunch and fat of bacon without dominating. High points for structural integrity.

Saucy Mouth’s and EVOO’s “Beyond Beef” Burgers

Right. Besides the patties, which no efforts of any kitchen could surmount, Saucy Mouth’s cool as shit looking photo negative, dark matter space burger looked awesome. The nori, homemade kimchi, and sauces were great but couldn’t put that patty into orbit.

EVOO doubled down on a bad bet with their double fake-meat patty, and though the vegan jalapeno sunflower cheddar sauce was fooling no one, it was fine as it was. The best part, was the side of pickled onion rings, almost candied; super fun!

Magnum & Steins’ & Celtic Hearth’s Mac’n’Cheese Topped Burgers

 Another trend that must be addressed. Macaroni and cheese is so good. So bland. So relaxing, safe, and wonderful. Which is why it is not good on a burger. Disassembled, the Magnum & Steins chicken burger was a nice meal of fried chicken and mac’n’cheese, but it was a senseless sandwich. The Celtic Hearth’s was a burger designed by a drunk child. My 6 year old loved it, though admitted it was “too wide” to eat. The deep-fried macaroni was weird/needless, and the bun was quite heavy.

Guv’nor’s Pub

It was indeed a burger, but pretty uneventful.  You know, curds on poutine work well for their squeak, and the texture they bring, not so much their flavour.  Coat them in batter and melt them?  Not sure why. Patty like a cabin barbeque.

Level II – “Nothing Wrong With That”


Scuttlebutt was, this entry varied day-to-day and by location (Downtown versus Uptown). We went to Piatto on “salty” day. No matter the day, the simple/upscale vision of a pizza-burger had superior sauce and mozzarella, and Chinched pepperoni. Their bun was great, chewy, and crusty but thin enough to bite well. The whole town is rooting for the bun as a permanent addition.

 Blue on Water’s and The Ship Pub’s Mushroom-Enhanced Patties

“Bun fail drives me up the f*cking wall, man, you don’t even know. “ – Michael

Both mushroom-enhanced beef patties were juicy, and Blue’s was not too tightly packed. Blue’s peanuts gave nice crunch with the slaw, and it came with soup or salad, but there was serious bun fail, which dragged it down to Level II.

The Ship’s bun didn’t hold up either, but it was toasted on both sides which was nice for the biscuit style bun, and it had the tangiest pickles of the battle. It was too salty, but so are Caesars and they work.

Gypsy Tea Room 

Good burger, good bun. Nothing wrong with it, and plenty right with their duck bacon. 

Mallard Cottage 

Very good patty with a bold mustard classically paired with homemade ketchup. Their quality ingredients, particularly the American cheese (USA!! USA!!) made it. The bun was biscuity and begged for an egg, but there’s something nice about going for a classic burger you already know. 

Chinched Bistro 

This is a favourite sandwich, but not a favourite burger. A  burger is a perfectly balanced creature, this was the full throttle tang of Italian meats,  a charcuterie-fest which missed the basic nature of burger essence; it overpowered everything including the intriguing caper mayo. But take heed all ye entrants to future burger battles, and learn from the architectural prowess of a kitchen that knows how to build a better burger. 100% for structural integrity and order of operations. 

Bernard Stanley’s

If you’re still playing video games with your buds, ripping monster hits off the bong, you’d love this saucy mess. Instability abounds, but the pretzel bun holds it in. The QV stout BBQ sauce was a fine example of how sweet can work on a burger.  Mozzarella stuffed in the patty broke up the wall-o-meat. Corn kernels be gone! You will need a wash down.

Level III – “Yes, Please! Would Ride Again.” 

Merchant Tavern 

Perfect, but not joyful.  Great moose burger! So many burgers have too much stuff going on.  No sweet berry juice, all savory baby.  The flavours of the moose, herbed bun, gruyere cheese … [*kisses finger tips*].  Arugula!  The only green for the mooses.

Fort Amherst Pub 

This front runner with great strengths and significant faults was like a promising first novel, slightly navel-gazing (did it need two big patties with a braised short rib in between?), almost certainly derivative, not my favourite genre, but infused with magic, and moments of grace  ̶  huge, juicy, meat grace. The beet slaw was good, and the cured foie gras was great, rich and tangy, like pickle ice-cream. 

Big Boy Baos 

Another imperfect one I would order again. The bao bun, perhaps because of the take-out container, was too steamed. But its pale chewy sog, along with the pale soft fries, was crave-making. It’s the only chicken thigh sandwich in town. (Chicken) breast is for suckas.  Great Sauce.

PJ Billington’s 

Oh my cockles, so fun! This burger makes you want to drop all sadness and spend the day at the G-force Funderdome. Queso! Iceberg, once again punching above its perceived class. It doesn’t come on a hipster seed bun, and it doesn’t sport a hot new innovative patty.  But it’s a chili burger, and its pretzel bun holds it all in. It’s a normal chili, chili burger.  The kind I used to get at your mother’s house. Tortilla chips are the exception that proves the rule about corn being stupid on burgers.  

Level: WINNER “Annoyingly Right” 


It’s like the patriots winning the Super Bowl. But this was, once again, the best burger. And not by close margins. They kept their original milk bun which will be hard for anyone to beat.  The duck-duck-beef patty, the peanut sauce, the slaw, and the duck fat crumble; everything was sized perfectly, shaped perfectly, ratio-ed just right. How much more fun would it be to say #champchampchump … but their burger supremacy is undeniable #champchampchamp.

People’s Choice Poll Winner: Blue on Water

It was a record year at the Burger Battle Ballot Box, with more than 2,600 votes. And half a dozen burgers were neck and neck. Blue on Water made the biggest splash though, with their Thai Fighter Burger.

Winner: Blue on Water (Thai Fighter Burger)
Silver: Fort Amherst Pub (The Rex Gout-y)
Bronze: Saucy Mouth Food Truck (Beyond Bibimbob Burger)

For a Complete Listing of this year’s Burger Battle contestants, click here.

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  • Thank you for sharing this post. Indeed that you guys did your job and your best to serve the best meals for people. Looking forward to another burger battle this year. I hope you will continue doing a good job.

  • I just about left it out completely because that’s what happens when you put burger ingredients on the side. Very annoying. I didn’t use much of it, but I wouldn’t wish it away, it added some colour and life to the thing.

  • We often commented to each other throughout the contest that just about every place reported selling copious amounts of burgers. 100s/wk and the like. It’s really cool how it caught on so well over the years, and it’s way easier than doing an rpm album!

    Now, where are all ye malcontents?! Let’s go!

  • The ability of a person to express themselves without cursing goes a long way towards their quality of writing. Quit the cursing – so unnecessary. Guess the many, many happy diners who voted for the People’s Choice award also disagree with your reviews, but hey.. what could they all possibly know that the vulgar “Burger King” doesn’t? 🙂

  • Hello, Comments Section,

    Thank you for coming into Blue on Water and eating our burger! It’s our goal at Blue to make delicious food. Which is why, I am glad so many of you enjoyed the Thai Fighter and voted. Your support means the world to us and we are all overjoyed at the recognition. If anyone on my team is reading this, great job! Now, if you’ll excuse me, I need to continue reading the hot-garbage fire between Mike and people with different opinions and taste buds.


    Adam G

  • Also: would it be possible to post how many burgers each place sold during the challenge, as another way of comparing?

    • Hey Dana. As a rough answer, it seems to have varied from 300 – 1500. Depending on the restaurant. but a by restaurant breakdown, we don’t have. It would’ve been a fun measure too, however, biased a bit by restaurant capacity.

  • I would have switched Yellowbelly and The Ship in your rankings. Structural integrity counts for a lot. Although agree that YB should have put their pineapple thing on the burger (or left it out completely?).

  • The people have spoken and the people got it right. The Thai Fighter from Blue On Water IMHO was the best one I tried with Seto a close second and Fort Amherst third. Congrats to all participants it was a fun month of over indulgence I loved heading to spots I haven’t been in years.

  • Chuckles! Anonymous, if that is indeed your real name. You can hate on our absolutely correct burger rankings all you want, and I’m happy to discuss them with you in a civilized manner any time. I was made for burgering buddy, I’ve been out there burgering day after day, year after year man; you see the gut on me, I’ll take you on. But how dare you invoke Carl Wells. Uncalled for. Shame on you Any.

  • These shit reviews are very Carl Wells like and the sub par writing is probably why your [this portion of the comment is redacted for inaccuracy / the commenter stated the paper failed, having failed himself to read the real reason the paper folded]. Maybe you should have all stuck to Reddit posts!

  • I really don’t mean to offend, but some of these are REALLY far off the mark. I have a detailed spreadsheet. I’m willing to share.

    PJ Billington’s was literally the bottom of my ranking and they have it in the top tier?!? HOW?!?

    I know there’s been some disagreement with rankings the previous 2 years, but this year is WAY off.

    • Let’s see a screengrab, Katherine, for fun? Discourse is a big part of it all, after the primary goal of selling some burgers. Opinions vary as much as burger offerings, and people making their case is part of the fun.

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