Again this month, we’re dealing with the numerous new Italian listings at the NLC, many of which are reasonably priced.

The Fontella 2015 ($17.47)

A solid every day Chianti. Elusive nose of cranberry or sour cherry. Desiccating dryness on the palate. Drinks lean and mean by itself, but comes alive and does its job with food. Rustic and simple in a good way. Well priced.

Umani Ronchi Jorio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2014 ($19.99)

Named, bizarrely, to celebrate the native Abruzzi poet and proto-fascist lunatic, Gabriele D’Annunzio. It’s a terrible fit, this 100% Montepuciano d’Abruzzo wine is soft, even flabby, internationally-styled and featureless.

D’Annunzio was on the Futurist cocaine psychosis side of flamboyant. More appropriate to name an amphetamine, rather than a wine, after the man whose last official title was “Duce” of the Italian Regency of Carnaro. The Joriois is a disappointment from UmaniRonchi, an outfit known for wines that drink much better than their price.