By Emily Deming & Felicity Roberts; Jin Dragon is Located at 27 Blackmarsh Road

COMBO #4 ($7.95 +tax)

Eggroll, Vegetable noodles, Chicken chow mein. The egg roll was the star of a mediocre show, with an unusual, black pepper flecked, and almost creamy filling. The noodles would have been better called “plain fried” noodles, as the scattered bits of shaved carrot was more a decorative garnish than a full vegetal element.

Still, they were tasty and fried without being greasy. Smaller in quantity, the mild and pleasant chow mein featured lots of chicken and fresh, crispy vegetables. The sauce, however, seemed nothing more than cornstarch and water, maybe a hint of sesame oil.

COMBO #3 ($7.95 +tax)

Eggroll, Vegetable noodles, Lemon Chicken. As in the other combo, the noodles were “vegetable” only in that they lacked meat. I have craved worse noodles. And these would do to satisfy a carb craving.

The Lemon chicken was better (though so much worse for me) and slides easily into the “shameful craving” category. Battered thickly in a close relative to box yellow cake mix, the nuggets were so freshly deep fried in clean oil that they nosed into the Ches’ fish and chips or Dunkin’ Donut territory of “must eat this now and regret this never…. well, rarely ever.”

ATMOSPHERE:

The service was quick, friendly, and unfussy. The best part was the other customers, a group of students who clued us in on what to order next time: anything NOT on the menu. Ask for the mushroom chicken or beef tenderloin with noodles. Though both are over 10$, they looked more than worth the upgrade.